In the decade since, macleod has pushed limits across all disciplines of climbing. Dont let climbing injuries dictate your success macleod, dave, jensen, susan, sutherland, john on. The books tell the story of rhapsody, a young singer of considerable talent who travels across time to a new land only to learn that it was foretold in a prophecy. Designs based on all of our filmsvideos, bring the psych wherever you go dave macleod on rhapsody e11. Dave macleod my book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes source. Trotter had attempted rhapsody the first climb to receive an e11 grade, and known as one of the worlds most challenging traditionally protected routeswithout success last year, but he returned for four weeks this spring to finish his project. He has climbed trad routes that have broken a new level of world class difficulty with rhapsody e11 and echo wall e11. Dave macleod worked his way past the crux of rhapsody, the first ascent he had been battling for years on dumbarton rock in scotland, knowing that a final stretch and a formidable grip would soon be all that stood between him and completing the most challenging route in the world at the time the first to be graded e11 with e standing for extremely severe, the toughest. See the complete macleod series book list in order, box sets or omnibus editions, and companion titles. Rhapsody, given the grade of e11 7a, is the direct finish to dave cuthbertsons 1983 route requiem e8 6b at dumbarton rock, a 70 metre volcanic plug northwest of. The video will be ready for purchase by the 21st of october, but you can preorder it now on dave macleod website. Dave macleod frees rhapsody e11 7a at dumbarton rock in scotland.
Films by dave macleod, usually involving climbing of one type or another. Apr 07, 2016 now thats what i call a first ascent ep6 rhapsody, e11, dave macleod hot aches productions. On june 9, canadian sonnie trotter made the second ascent of dave macleods rhapsody e11 7a 5. You see, rhapsody may be an eliminate, but it is still rhapsody. Hes an absolute crusher, somewhat of an old guy, does everything climbing trad, bouldering, sport, solo, ice, mountaineering, is a technical master and a great wealth of knowledge that he shares through blogs and books. This makes it a strong contender for one of the hardest trad pitches in the world. Sonnie trotter from canada has just made the coveted second ascent of rhapsody, dave macleod s e11 at dumbarton rock, scotland. He is known for being the first climber in the world to climb in free solo style without rope a route darwin dixit in margalef, in 2008, and for climbing one of the hardest trad climbing routes in scotland rhapsody on dumbarton rock, graded e11 7a, in 2006 biography. Im best known for my first ascents of routes such as rhapsody, the worlds first e11. The route that took dave macleod over 70 days to climb, on which he hurt himself badly on several falls including a 70 footer and also falling upside.
Few thought that rhapsody e11 would be bettered anytime soon, but the first ascent of echo wall high on the north face of ben nevis brought another rise in world standards in trad climbing. Macleods books vancouver 2020 all you need to know. Dave macleod author of 9 out of 10 climbers make the same. E11 tells the story behind the first ascent of rhapsody, a route considered to be the hardest traditional rock climb in the world. Everyday low prices and free delivery on eligible orders. Dave macleod is based in the highlands of scotland and has developed his skills across a wide range of climbing disciplines to become one of the best all round climbers youll meet. Bucklessmiths tech blog the latest trends and helpful. Books and training equipment for improving at rock climbing by dave macleod, including 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes, make or break, the. Echo wall is a strong contender for the worlds hardest traditional rock climb. In association with mountain equipment and goretex we are delighted to welcome author, ice climber and climber dave macleod back to ellis brigham mountain sports this february to share his expertise and experiences.
This is my blog about my climbing, my life and my work. Firmly established as one of the worlds best allround climbers, dave macleod has a string of outstanding ascents to his name. He has just soloed darwin dixit f8c and as far as we know this is the hardest solo in the world. The symphony of ages series written by author haydon is a bestselling fantasy series, which begins with the trilogy of the novels titled as rhapsody, prophecy, and destiny respectively. Dave macleod coasts along the golden road in scotland. After working on it for two years it only took 10 minutes for dave macleod to put up the hardest trad rock climb in the world. Discover book depositorys huge selection of dave macleod books online. Many hours of gripping footage document dave working on his latest projects, cranking hard and succeeding on seemingly impossible routes. The scottish climber dave macleod, 27, has established what is perhaps the worlds hardest traditional rock climb. Rhapsody is the true finish to the line of requiem, graded e8 6b.
But after reading your blog, and hearing so many stories, i only wish every climber was as honest to the sport as you. Dave macleod is without doubt one of the worlds top allround climbers renowned for his dedication and single minded training. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Specialist manufacturers of technical outdoor clothing and equipment, including goretex waterproofs, down insulation and a full range of sleeping bags.
He is well known for his personal climbing achievements. Leave the navigation to someone else as you see stanley parks indigenous peoples story poles, visit key neighborhoods, and cross a massive suspension bridge through the rain forest. If you werent aware already, 9 out of 10 is much more of a philosophical guide, giving an overview of all of the different aspects of training for rock climbing while providing pretty juicy insights into how to adopt the right attitude towards the sport and training how to deal with. Let me know if it helps you find new books you didnt know were out there, or suggestions for additions. He moved to canada in 1975 to study forestry, and in his spare time he learned to construct crossword puzzles. Rhapsody is a woman, a singer of some talent, who is swept up into events of worldshattering import. Scottish dave macleod has climbed the direct finish to requiem at dumbarton rock, scotland, calling the climb rhapsody and grading the route e11 7a. Rhapsody, e11, climbed by dave macleod on sunday the 9th of april 2006. Well, nine out of ten is really like a behavioral science book rather than a training book. The symphony of ages is a series of fantasyromance books by elizabeth haydon. In april 2006, macleod established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade of e11 7a, was possibly. On the run from an old romantic interest who wont take no for an answer, rhapsody literally bumps into a couple of shady characters.
Author of two bestselling books on training for climbing, climbing injuries and coaching climbing. I noted the part you wrote about the glycogen supplies in the muscles. All i can think reading daves blog this morning was that i was inspired and thanks for sharing it. Ukc articles dave macleod, the modern traditionalist. All standard elements of the 19th century western man.
With mixed weather in scotland, macleod is used to mixing up the disciplines in climbing. In april 2006, macleod established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade of e11 7a, was possibly the hardest trad climbing route in the world. Macleod exemplifies the qualities of honor, courage, and a sense of duty. Explore vancouver, the north shore, and the capilano suspension bridge on a fullday coach tour that takes in some of the citys top sites.
Still, even a man of such standards can have his prejudices. Trotter had attempted rhapsodythe first climb to receive an e11 grade, and known as one of the worlds most challenging traditionally protected routeswithout success last year, but he returned for four weeks this spring to finish his project. On june 9, 2008, sonnie trotter made the second ascent of dave macleods 35 metre rhapsody e11 7a 5. Born of canadian parents in princeton, new jersey, dave macleod s awareness of the cultural differences between the two countries began at an early age.
There is a tremendous amount of logic behind what dave macleod did and that deserves a pile of respect i think. Ive been blogging and vlogging for years and my two books 9 out of 10. The movie can be purchased at the online adventure company steepedge and was. On june 9, canadian sonnie trotter made the second ascent of dave macleod s rhapsody e11 7a 5.
Dave macleod is the author of 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes 3. Mar 21, 2017 i bought 9 out of 10 climbers from his website and make or break through amazon. Dave macleod, or dumby dave to his friends, had sent what was then regarded as the worlds hardest traditional rock climb, at dumbarton rocks in scotland. Rhapsody e11 dave macleod s ascent captured by hot aches productions. E11 the hardest traditional rock climb in the world. Rhapsody e11 dave macleods ascent captured by hot aches. Dave macleod project gutenberg selfpublishing ebooks.
I first heard of you watching a trailer for a film with a clip of you taking a big whipper on rhapsody and it made you look like a bit of a twunt. That time sonnie trotter sent rhapsody e11 gripped magazine. Rhapsody, given the grade of e11 7a, is the direct finish to dave cuthbertsons 1983 route requiem e8 6b at dumbarton rock, a 70 metre volcanic plug northwest of glasgow dumbarton rock profile. The only rule is dont bail left to the arete a cop. Canadian sonnie trotter has made the second ascent of rhapsody, dave macleod s e11 at dumbarton rock, scotland. The only rule is dont bail left to the arete a cop out, stay on the face and the line is very much obvious. Trotter sent the line after a monthlong siege during which he fought hard against the fickle local weather and the technical difficulties of the route which. You guys talked a bit about body types and how different trainingdiet plans will have different benefitsimpacts on them. Im dave, im a climber from scotland and i live in letterfinlay in the scottish highlands with my wife claire and my cat puss puss.
Hes one of my climbing heroes and both of his books are brilliant. All i can think reading dave s blog this morning was that i was inspired and thanks for sharing it. Although this habit is forced on climbers in scotland by the weather, he has come to love the variety of moving from bouldering to mixed to sea cliffs to mountain trad. The macleod book series by multiple authors includes books a dance through time, the very thought of you, veils of time, and several more. Designs based on all of our filmsvideos, bring the psych wherever you go. On june 9, 2008, sonnie trotter made the second ascent of dave macleods 35metre rhapsody e11 7a 5. Dave macleod frees rhapsody e11 7a at dumbarton rock in. Dave macleod and andy kirkpatrick talk first ascents. John has done a superb job as usual creating a beautiful little book full. Requiem was climbed in 1983 by dave cuthbertson and was one of the hardest rock climbs in the world at the time. Trotter had attempted rhapsody, the first trad climb to receive an e11. My work these days is climbing, writing, coaching, lecturing and making films. In december 2009, macleods book 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes.
About dave macleod, e11 trad climber, 9a sport, v15 bouldering, xii mixed and author of two bestselling books on training for rock climbing, climbing injuries and climbing coaching. He has written two books, 9 out of 10 climbers being a widelyread and muchquoted guide to. My second book make or break has helped thousands of climbers prevent and treat climbing injuries. At dumbarton rock, rhapsody graded e11 7a is the direct finish to requiem e8 6b, put up by dave cuthbertson in 1983. Dave macleod is a climber based in the west highlands of scotland. Posted on january 21, 2016 in climbing, traditional. He has also climbed v in bouldering, 9a in sport climbing and xi in scottish mixed climbing. On imdb tv, you can catch hollywood hits and popular tv series at no cost. One of the best all round climbers in the world is on a mission to take rock climbing to new levels of both difficulty and danger. Recently i watched a movie entitled e11 which features one of the top climbers in britain, dave macleod, establishing and climbing a route called rhapsody at dumbarton rock in glasgow. Even though i feel ive always been eating quite well, i do regularly have my muscle energy draining after climbing some intense routes, without my muscles actually getting pumped. In april 2006, he established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade.
Select any poster below to play the movie, totally free. January 21, 2016 rhapsody e11 dave macleod s ascent captured by hot aches productions. Nov 25, 2009 buy 9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes 1st by dave macleod, claire macleod isbn. The ascent was very well featured in the e11 dvd with a personal story including some long falls. Perhaps best known for trad and scottish winter climbing, dave is also an outstanding boulderer and has more recently has begun to repeat some of the hardest routes in the alps including bellavista 8c in the dolomites and paciencia 8a on the eiger. I think in some ways doing rhapsody e11 at dumbarton rock back in the day was a really important climb that made every other climb since a little easier because that one was so far above my level when i started trying it i just tried it because it was there, at my home crag, and i was driven by curiosity if it was possible and a bit of an. Now that rhapsody has been repeated by two climbers, what is the consensus on the grade. Im certainly used to meeting enthusiastic and smart young folk involved in all manner of mountain sports, but it was great to learn more about zekis passion for bushcraft when we travelled over to speak to him for this film. Omg, dave macleod is one of my top two favorite climbers. Tbp 039 dave macleod on training, fear, injuries, and. Now thats what i call a first ascent ep6 rhapsody, e11, dave macleod hot aches productions. In april 2006, macleod established the climb rhapsody on. Dave macleod is the author of perhaps the worlds hardest traditional route. Dave macleod born 17 july 1978 is a scottish rock climber.
Feb 10, 2015 dave macleod is a professional climber and coach based in the highlands of scotland. In april 2006, he established the climb rhapsody on dumbarton rock which, at a grade of. Told in an offbeat dramadoc style the film attempts to understand what it takes to climb a route of this standard. As a scot, dave is schooled in both trad climbing and new routing in adventurous places. Scottish dave macleod has climbed the direct finish to requiem at dumbarton rock, scotland, calling the climb rhapsody and grading the. Its in beta at the moment and the feature needs some improvement but hopefully amazon will soon allow us to customise and add more categories for guidebooks, training books, etc. Dave macleod has a string of outstanding ascents to his name. There are 9 books in the symphony of ages series in total, which were published between the years 1999 and 2016. As a scot, dave is schooled in both trad climbing and new routing in. Now thats what i call a first ascent ep6 rhapsody, e11. Now thats what i call a first ascent ep3 the long hope dave macleod.
Dave macleod shop training for climbing books, hangboards. The nut that held over 40 falls, 50 footers mainly. Dave macleod, e11 trad climber, world class allrounder climbing 9a, v15, xii mixed and many big wall fas. Although i do get into the details of what exercises you can do on a climbing wall and how you should use a finger board or a campus board and all of the nitty gritty of training, the basic point of the book is to worry less about those. Dave macleod frees rhapsody e11 7a at dumbarton rock in scotland scottish dave macleod has climbed the direct finish to requiem at dumbarton rock, scotland, calling the climb rhapsody and grading the route e11 7a. The highlight of the video is the worlds first e11 and hardest traditional rock climb. Sep 11, 2019 dave macleod is based in the highlands of scotland and has developed his skills across a wide range of climbing disciplines to become one of the best all round climbers youll meet. He is known for being the first climber in the world to climb in free solo style without rope a 8c 5.
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